Terhi Pölkki. Photo Timo Anttonen.

“As part of my work as a footwear designer I used to travel to India, Brazil and China to see how shoes are manufactured on mass. I thought that I could do things differently.”

That’s how TERHI PÖLKKI (b. 1980) began to design and create her own footwear collection.

Pölkki graduated in footwear design from the Wetterhoff Hämeenlinna University of Applied Sciences in 2006 and then continued on to do a Master’s program at the prestigious Cordwainers at the London College of Fashion. After graduating in 2008, Pölkki worked in London designing footwear for Topshop, Kurt Geiger and Urban Outfitters, among others.

Terhi Pölkki’s first own footwear collection will be launched in the spring of 2012. “The collection is simple, Scandinavian, even minimalist,” she explains. “I don’t like stitching, so I try to replace them with clean cuts. However, I have also added polished details, such as large stitching. Practicality and comfort are the most important things. The shape of the lasts has also been worked on a lot.”

Ecological aspects are a natural part of the collection because the shoes have been made of vegetable tan leather rather than from metal processed leather which is used more often. The collection’s clogs are manufactured in Finland and the rest is done in Portugal.

“My starting point is always the design, shape and last. The ecological material is there, it’s a permanent thing, but it’s not the major determinant and the shoe doesn’t have to have ecology written all over it,” the designer clarifies. †

Terhi Pölkki, SS 2012. Photo Timo Anttonen.

Terhi Pölkki, SS 2012. Photo Timo Anttonen.

Terhi Pölkki, SS 2012. Photo Timo Anttonen.

Terhi Pölkki, SS 2012. Photo Timo Anttonen.

Terhi Pölkki, SS 2012. Photo Timo Anttonen.

Terhi Pölkki’s footwear collection is available in Helsinki through Nudge (Yrjönkatu 30) and Design Forum Shop (Erottajankatu 7).

www.terhipolkki.com

Jenni Ahtiainen / gTIE.

gTIE, a collection with a rock ‘n’ roll attitude, includes ties and other neckwear made of leather, feathers, fur, lace, chains and even fish skin. Launched in 2007, the collection originated from founder-designer JENNI AHTIAINEN’s need to design suitable neckwear for herself.

She designed the first ties in the fall of 2006. It wasn’t long before the edgy ties and neckwear were decorating the necks of various musicians. The most famous gTIE piece got to go to the president’s Independence Day reception in 2006 worn by HIM vocalist VILLE VALO.

“The little anarchist in me came to life and I began to wonder why men have to wear such boring clothes. I also wondered about how I could break the traditional male dress code. I began to design ties and jewelry for women when I was pregnant. It must have been a hormonal thing,” laughs Ahtiainen who previously worked as a graphic designer.

At the moment, the gTIE has two collections – the ready-made Frenzy collection and the tailor-made gUNIQUE collection. Both collections include unique interpretations of neckties, plastrons, collars, hoods, scarfs and jewelry. All products are made in Finland, not only in Helsinki, but also in Vaasa, Huittinen and Lappeenranta.

“I often get my ideas from the music world, videos etc. I sing in various ensembles myself and music has always been close to my heart,” Ahtiainen explains.

“I have to be careful when I choose the music that I listen to in the morning because that will often affect the entire day. It’s not a good idea to listen to Danko Jones’ songs in the morning because they make me feel like drinking beer,” she laughs.

“It’s also easy to draw inspiration from the people within the music world as well as their needs. Especially men who sometimes give ideas for unique products that can be then modified and added to the ready-made collection. I often wonder what kind of neckwear would be suitable for a certain person, for example a dancer, or what that person would like to wear.”

“In a way it’s like graphic design, but just worn by a person.” †

gTIE.

gTIE.

gTIE.

gTIE.

gTIE, Hämeentie 4, 00530 Helsinki. www.gtie.fi (gTIE Boutique Online)

Marjut Uotila/Dusty.

Clothing designer MARJUT UOTILA’s mens’ collection Dusty is an insightful and experimentational avantgarde-esque collection that has gathered a lot of attention at fashion fairs from Paris to Florence.

Dusty’s Spring-Summer collection 2011 was inspired by a forest spring in Lahti, only reachable via duckboards running through a forest. The collection’s photography was also taken at the spring.

”In my mind, the duckboards were the catwalk. I thought about how characters arise from the spring and traverse the forest catwalk. The mood at the spring is frozen, and that brought about streamlined clothes with small elements,” Uotila describes.

”The collections are made in Finland, near Lahti. It’s practical, because the clothes have plenty of small hand-made details, and producing them nearby enables easy communication,” Uotila says.

The collection is on sale in Helsinki at Liike and Lumi on 14, and also in ten countries around the world – including Isetan department stores in Japan. In March, the collection will make its debut in Sweden, when Stockholm concept store Flux Shop makes Dusty their collection of the month.

Uotila is also designing Dusty for Topman LENS for British Topshop. Topman LENS is a project that gathers interesting up-and-coming mens’ clothing designers  from around the world.

”Dusty was chosen for unique and recognizable design and innovative crafted details,” Uotila laughs. ”Although the collection will only be on sale at Topshop’s flagship stores, it will catch a much larger audience than the Dusty collection proper.” †

Dusty collection is on sale in Helsinki at Liike (Yrjönkatu 25, 00100 Helsinki, www.liike-shop.com) and Lumi on 14 (Pursimiehenkatu 14, 00150 Helsinki, www.lumion14.com)

Dusty spring/summer 2011. Photos Juha Arvid Helminen.

Dusty spring/summer 2011. Photo Juha Arvid Helminen.

Dusty spring/summer 2011. Photos Juha Arvid Helminen.

Dusty spring/summer 2011. Photos Juha Arvid Helminen.

Dusty spring/summer 2011. Photos Juha Arvid Helminen.

www.dusty.fi

Text Heini Lehtinen

Photos Juha Arvid Helminen
Model Mert/Paparazzi
Shoes Saara Kivimäki

Woodism: Tapio Anttila, Markku Tonttila, Petri Polso, Timo Suutari, Susan Elo.

Consisting of designers and fine carpenters, the Woodism group produces wooden products made from trees felled in parks and private yards that would’ve otherwise ended up chopped or dumped.

The 11-person group supports ecologic thinking and local production. Their operations were sparked by the by the media attention when some of Kaivopuisto’s elms were felled – and were to end up chopped. The felled trunks were salvaged, and Woodism’s members sawed them up and made various products from the wood. Among others, TAPIO ANTTILA’s Slice table was made from Kaivopuisto elm. Some of Kaivopuisto’s hardwood is still in storage near Haltiala manor in Helsinki, waiting to be used.

Most of the group’s raw materials come from parks or private yards. Every Woodism product has a label stating where the wood was felled. If you end up having to chop down your favorite tree, Woodism can turn it into e.g. a lovely table.

Woodism is working closely with Propuu (‘pro wood’), an association promoting and developing the use of wood. All of the wood used by Woodism is sawed in Propuu’s facilities.

“By sawing the wood ourselves, we can think about the product already at that stage. We can saw the wood into dimensions that we couldn’t find elsewhere,” says Tapio Anttila, one of the founding members of Woodism. “We also try to use the wood’s ‘mistakes’ in the design, and we don’t even want to use wood of uniform quality.”

Woodism’s products are available on their website. The products are mainly made to order. The concept and products have been introduced at Helsinki’s Habitare fair and in Tokyo’s Hirameki exhibition. There has been a lot of interest at least from the Japanese market. †

Slice table. Material: elm. Cut down at Kaivopuisto in 2008. Designer Tapio Anttila, carpenter Päivi Salenius.

Palikka stool. Made of waste wood. Cut down at Evo, Lahti and Kaivopuisto 2005–2008. Designers Tapio Anttila and Merita Soini, production Tapio Anttila and Merita Soini. // Table, chairs and pendant light. Material: ash. Cut down at Evo in 2005. Designer Susan Elo, carpenter Raimo Kantonen.

Paanu cabinet for keys. Material: spruce, birch, pine. Cut down in Lahti in 2008. Designer and carpenter Markku Tonttila.

Haapa bench. Material: aspen/oak. Cut down in Heinola and Lahti in 2006 and 2008. Designer Merita Soini, carpenter Petri Polso.

Kukkuu cuckoo clock. Material: pine. Cut down at Evo in 2009. Designer Tapio Anttila, carpenter Päivi Salenius. // Lumberjack’s stool. Material: pine or spruce. Designer and carpenter Jouko Kärkkäinen.

Lastu arm chair. Designer Tapio Anttila.

Hukkapuu bench. Material: various woods. Cut down at Evo and Kaivopuisto in 2005 and 2008. Designer Merita Soini, carpenter Petri Polso.

www.woodism.fi

Text Heini Lehtinen

Johan Olin and Aamu Song + Company's Pingu outfits.

Design agency COMPANY operates on several sectors of the design field, doing e.g. product, environmental and graphic design. JOHAN OLIN (b.1974) and AAMU SONG (b. 1974) admit to having their dream job, as they can choose what to do, as well as when and with whom to do it.

Founded in 2000, COMPANY is known for playful and humoristic products and projects such as their toadstool stool and apparel-come-furniture. The Finnish-Korean duo was awarded the prestigious The State Prize for Design in October 2010.

They first met at the Helsinki School of Art and Design, and now they are designing and producing new products with small local businesses. The products in their Top Secrets of Finland collection are manufactured by traditional small businesses around Finland. Their previous collection Made in Korea and Made in Belgium were, in fact, made respectively in Korea and Belgium.

”Aamu has a knack for finding doers,” says Johan Olin. ”They can be found in small local shops, the Hakaniemi market hall and online. My job is to drive there.”

Olin and Song travel and visit small factories and shops. After their visit, once they get to know the people and ways of the companies, design ideas are hammered out with the local people.

”Most of the companies have run in the family for generations. Our ideas and products are a celebration of the manufacturing skill of the factories and workers. The reception has almost always been excellent, although Aamu was once mistaken for a Chinese industrial spy,” Olin laughs.

COMPANY products are sold in Finland at COMPANY’s own store Salakauppa in Helsinki. The products can also be ordered online. †

Nukku Perhonen. Made in Helsinki, Finland. Material: Cotton, wadding.

Dance Shoes. Made in Jämsä, Finland. Material: Felt, rubber.

Animals of Finland Puzzle. Hand-made in Joutsa, Finland. Material: Stained birch. // Small Hug Puzzle. Hand-made in Joutsa, Finland. Material: Birch.

Accordion Boots. Manufactured in Töysä, Finland. Leather made in Lapua, Finland. Shoe sole made in Kankaanpää, Finland. Material: Leather, rubber sole.

Mushroom Stool. Made in Mäntyharju, Finland. Material: Birch, paint. // Winter Tie. Made in Helsinki, Finland. Material: 85 % wool, 15 % acrylic.

COMPANY Shop Salakauppa, Postikatu 1, 00100 Helsinki. www.com-pa-ny.com

Text Heini Lehtinen

Eero Johannes.

Graphic designer, illustrator and musician Eero Johannes (born 1986) does illustrations by day and music by night. The musician, whose graphic design studies are on hold at least for now, calls his electronic music “laboratory-produced funk”. His biggest influences are 1970s and ‘80s boogie and funk. “Those get me excited every time,” he stresses.

Retro influences can also be found in his futuristic and geometric illustrations. The game-like style is familiar to many from album covers and club posters.

Johannes’ dearest work project has been his “Chinese conquest”, the Sounds Like Suomi 09 tour that travelled around China in 2009 taking Finnish electronic music to local clubs and festivals.

Electronic music, especially spinning records, and graphic design seem to be, for whatever reason, a near-classic combination. “It’s an interesting trait,” Johannes laughs. “Both are about combining different elements and pieces. Choosing typography and illustrations for a poster is kind of similar to piecing together drum sounds and beats and throwing in some samples. It’s about building a larger whole from somewhat pre-made elements.”

Nolla club posters.

Hannulelauri, Supermonkey EP.

Eero Johannes record cover.

www.myspace.com/eerojohannes

www.pekkafinland.fi/eerojohannes

Text Heini Lehtinen

Anna Laitinen and Tuomas Laitinen.

Laitinen popped up in 2006 at the renowned Hyères fashion festival. It is the work of siblings TUOMAS (b. 1979) and ANNA LAITINEN (b. 1974). For spring 2010, after a season’s break, Laitinen has grown into a full-scale men’s clothing line. The siblings introduced their collection in Paris and Milan, and they’ve also moved the entire Laitinen sales organization into Paris.

“Compared to our previous collections, this spring’s line is more graphical and minimalistic,” says Tuomas, who also teaches at the School of Art and Design. “We’ve tried to be more masculine and disciplined. We’ve combined elements of classic men’s tailoring with sci-fi and biker influences.”

The spring and summer 2010 collection’s materials are mostly digitally printed silk and cotton. Sweaters contain special Japanese thread that combines silk with for example stainless steel. The woollen fabrics come from the same 200-year-old Scottish company that Prince CHARLES orders his suit materials from.

“We manufacture all of our designs also in women’s sizes if necessary, but it’s easier to grow a small collection by focusing mainly on either men’s or women’s clothing. Despite the recession, we’ve gotten new customers, such as department stores Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong and Isetan in Japan.”

The collection is available in Helsinki at Wunder (Pursimiehenkatu 5, 00150 Helsinki) and Helsinki10 (Eerikinkatu 3, 00100 Helsinki). The spring collection is also for sale in New York, Amsterdam, Tokyo and Shanghai. †

Laitinen SS 2010. Photos Chris Vidal.

Laitinen SS 2010. Photos Chris Vidal.

Laitinen SS 2010. Photos Chris Vidal.

Laitinen SS 2010. Photos Chris Vidal.

www.laitinencollection.com

Text Heini Lehtinen Photos Chris Vidal

Susanna Majuri.

The best-known works of fine art photographer SUSANNA MAJURI (born 1978) are her vibrant and colorful depictions of the different forms of water. Her works have been on display in New York, Paris, London and Berlin, to name a few, and some can also be found in the collections of the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma and Helsinki City Art Museum.

“Colors and tones are important in my pictures. Photography is a part of my work, but finding new materials for pictures is at least as important. I start off by matching different colors together. During this process the other elements in the photo start to tell a story. The final image contains many surprises. I want to surprise myself as well.”

“My newer works are more playful and contain more animal motifs than before. That might have something to do with me growing up and, after finishing school, feeling a different kind of responsibility for myself. What other people think isn’t as important now, it’s about what I like. My puppy, miniature husky Lumi (Snow in Finnish), has also had a relaxing effect on my life.”

Majuri continues on her trademark path of water photography in her latest exhibition at the Finnish Museum of Photography. A large part of the photographs shown have never been seen in Finland or abroad. After Helsinki, Majuri’s exhibition will be on display at the Belgian Museum of Photography in 2011. †

Susanna Majuri, Jan 27–May 23 at the Finnish Museum of Photography
Helsinki School of Photography − New Generation, Feb 24–May 16 at Meilahti Art Museum

www.myspace.com/susannamajuri

Gone, 2007. Photo Susanna Majuri.

Mykines, 2007. Photo Susanna Majuri.

Winter, 2009. Photo Susanna Majuri.

Aliisa, 2009. Photo Susanna Majuri.

Raven, 2009. Photo Susanna Majuri.

Text Heini Lehtinen