Restaurant Johans. Photo Verna Kovanen.
Seasonal restaurant Johans opened its doors in Porvoo on May Day, bringing a welcome addition to the array of restaurants around the larger metropolitan area. Located in the middle of Old Porvoo, Johans combines old and new, culture and summer nights.
The granaries in Porvoo’s Jokikatu, hundreds of years old, were once the home of horses and wagons. But not anymore, because a renovation, which started in late March, meant a new beginning for the courtyard. The picturesque scene was brought back to life on May Day as summer restaurant Johans opened its doors.
It feels like forever since March, when a giant white sheet of snow covered a vast ancient courtyard and silenced any steps. The old courtyard has become a sunny terrace, sloping towards river Porvoo. The old stables and houses form four different restaurant spaces, housing Johans’ 130 seats. The traditional milieu has been livened up by interior architect ELIISA KORPIJÄRVI’s design, collaboration with among others Marimekko, and even Johans’ very own pattern. Old, restored chairs and sleek tables combine old with new and give space and objects new life.
Johans. Photo Verna Kovanen. Pattern Antti Uotila.
Balancing between old and new
The people behind Johans are ANDERS WESTERHOLM and MATTI SARKKINEN, the owners of Helsinki’s Japanese restaurants Sushibar and Raku Ya, and RIKU STENROS of Jenny Woo and Cuba! fame. Johans’ kitchen is run by SAMU KOSKINEN, who has shared a vision with the restaurateurs from day one.
Being a summer restaurant, Johans is open only for a couple of months, but the menu will still have time to change several times during the summer. Among other things, the menu will include shared starters, such as glowfried salmon and wild boar. Main courses are also local produce at its best. From the start, the selection of ingredients has aimed at bringing 18th century dishes into the modern day. FREDRIKA RUNEBERG’s cooking books acted as a starting point, since she spent a brief while at Johans’ location with her husband, Finland’s national poet J. L. RUNEBERG. Weekend mornings have been reserved for long brunches.
Johans isn’t content with just combining old traditions with modern cooking. In addition to the ever-changing menus, Johans will also offer culture and other happenings. Plans include theater and movie nights several times a week, as well as live music. “Togetherness, being social and doing things with other people is important to us,” says Anders Westerholm. “We want people to stay at Johans after they’ve finished their meal, and perhaps have a bottle of cava. You can also come to Johans to enjoy social dining by an open fire and listen to live performances.”
The summer’s short – enjoy it!
In previous years, Porvoo’s terraces have formed a cluster by the river, but now Johans will also have a pier that even fits a couple boats in the summer. Johans is sure to attract locals, summer cottage goers and travellers from Helsinki’s surroundings and abroad.
”We never looked for a restaurant space in Porvoo, but the opportunity arose by accident to build something unique in this space. There was no way we could turn the opportunity down,” Westerholm smiles.
”We never doubted to seize the moment. Porvoo has become a familiar town for us through our friends, and that’s why we’re thrilled to open a restaurant in Porvoo. Understanding the surroundings is very important for us, and that somewhat limits our enthusiasm to expand to other cities. Although we are not from Porvoo, we would like to think that we understand the inner balance of the town.”
So, Porvoo’s newest entrepreneurs aren’t conquistadors from Helsinki, but rather a humble yet confident team of restaurant owners. “Everything is possible in Johans. You can have your sister’s wedding here, or propose to your girlfriend. You can arrange every kind of occasion in these unique surroundings.”
Sadly, all good must come to an end. So will Johans’ tenure, when the weather forces it to close its doors in the fall. Until then the restaurant is open from lunch until the evening. †
Text Pauliina Lindsberg Photos Verna Kovanen Translation Jyri Paavilainen
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